Buckshot77 |
Learned patience the hard way |
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Reged: 11/24/00 |
Posts: 2454 |
Loc: Des Moines, IA USA
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Actually that
interior of the engine is completey coated in varnish. The inside of
your engine should be aluminum in color, not gold. You need to scrub
everything you can or get the block dipped. I've received a few
shortblocks that looked similar and had to clean them up. I'm
assuming it was poor oil choice on their part causing it, so if you
don't mind my asking, what brand/weight oil do you run? Also, what
grade and brand of fuel as this may have a slight affect as well. It
would seem most of the engines I got that looked like this came from
the east coast.
Rick
-------------------- Owner of
00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L
parts for sale
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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I did clean
the block, etc. and yes the true aluminum color did come through!!!
This is out of a 95 contour and I have had the car about 2
years.......I use Castrol motor oil. The previous owner did not do
to much in terms of maintenance with this car by the looks of it.
When I pulled the timing cover one of the plastic timing guides was
broke - I don't think the engine would have lasted much longer
190,000 miles. The price Ford wants for the replacement main bolts
is outrageious. Where is a good place to get these main torque to
yield bolts as well as
bearings.....
Thanks,
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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Buckshot77 |
Learned patience the hard way |
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Reged: 11/24/00 |
Posts: 2454 |
Loc: Des Moines, IA USA
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I can get you
main and rod bearings that are upgraded versus OEM- clevite rod
bearings and federal mogul mains. I can get them standard size or
.25 and .5 mm undersize. PM me for pricing. As far as the TTY bolts
on the bottom end, there are 16 total and list should be around $72.
You should be able to get them through Signature Lincoln Mercury for
25% less. Also, you need 12 rod bolts too.
Rick
-------------------- Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled)
98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L
parts for sale
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well, I am
stillllll receiving parts. I purchased chrome moly rings at
AutoZone. I then went to a local engine rebuilder for the main and
rod bearings...autozone and oreilly could not help me. I went to
measure ring end gap in bore and there was like a quarter inch
overlap on the rings. I then knew autozone did not give me thr
correct rings. I then called auto zone to check this out and they
said those are the right rings and that probably someone changed out
my cylinder head and that is why they don't fit.....hmmmm....it is
reallllly hard to get good help these days. Well I called the local
engine rebuilder and he could order them for me. He then asked what
main and rod bearings I picked up yesterday. When I told him the
numbers he said those are the wrong bearings...those are for a
Mazda....It seems people get these engines mixed up. Mazda 2.5L is
not the same as a Ford Duratec 2.5L So WEd I should have my rod/main
thrust and rings in. I also should have my parts shipment in for
that contain the new main bolts 16 torque to yied. as well as rod
and head bolts. It seems awful cheap of ford to use torque to yield
not to mention the waste of enviornmental scrape.
I took my
alternator and started to a rewind shop for rebuilding...will save
me a ton of money compared to auto zone price.
Heads are
back from the machine shop. he did have to mill the heads. He
replaced stem seals and there were no burnt valves. Did do a valve
job also. Cost on heads for valve job and milling was
170.00
Crank had to be turned .10 under that cost me 80
dollars. I did take the pistons and rods and asked him to check them
out to see if they needed replaced. He said they were in great shape
and to just clean them with a wire brush. I honed the block myself
today.
Injector rail was taken apart and cleaned - simple
green is greattttt stuff!!!
Many of my parts was bought from
Bill Jenkins. He does offer good prices. Everytime I go to my local
Ford dealer and ask for a discount they get ticked and say ok will
give you 15% off. Well I found then that their list price is then
higher than what surrounding dealers are....I don't go there any
more unless I have to - and I have bought quite a bit from
him.......
I'll have pictures next weekend when I start to
assemble.
There is one sending unit that I can't identify.
It is on lower block, it screws into a sleeve and then the sleeve
screws into the block. It looks like the old water temp sending
units on old Chevys. I'm not sure what this is. I'll post a pitcure
for help.
Also finally my shipment was sent out from BAT for
suspension components, etc. It did take awhile for them to get
everything together. Really don't mind too much he has some pretty
good prices.
I've found that www.autopartsgiant has som good
pricing and a selection for Contours. You may want to check them out
if you are having a hard time finding
parts.
Later, Bob
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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When I cleaned
my oil pump pickup tube I found dirt, gasket material,etc. stuck in
the screen and tube body. If you change your pan. I recommend
removing the tube - there is an oring seal you need to
replace....and clean this out
-------------------- An ounce of prevention
provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well I changed
my mind here are some pictures.....
Piston still not finished yet with cleaning
This is the sensor I'm trying to identify!!!
-------------------- An ounce of prevention provides
a pound of cure!
Edited by Lance
Kinley (12/04/04 01:57 PM)
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eepals |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 03/05/02 |
Posts: 496 |
Loc: NJ | |
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The sensor is
the oil pressure (switch) sending unit. It is mounted into, by the
look of the picture, two reducing bushings. You might want to add it
to your list of things to replace. It is cheap, its easier to
replace now.
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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I thought my
oil pressure sending unit was located above the a/c compressor. Are
there two of
them?
Thanks, Bob
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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eepals |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 03/05/02 |
Posts: 496 |
Loc: NJ | |
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What side of
the block was that sensor on? You are correct with the oil switches
location by the a/c compressor. The picture is blurry, but it looks
like the sending unit to me.
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Ok, It is the
oil sensor I'm talking about. The sleeve kinda threw me
off.....
Thanks, Bob
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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